Bakan Wynwood: Authentic Mexican with an Oaxacan flavor

Wrapping around the corner of 28th and Northwest 2nd Ave in Wynwood is Bakan, a 6000 square foot, artsy, creative Mexican restaurant helmed by Chef Oscar del Rivero, that has quickly become a popular spot for lunch, Happy Hour, dinner and late-night dining.

It was a rare Miami rainy night, but we dined under cover on the attractive outside patio, watching the buzzy bar scene as we enjoyed authentic handmade blue corn tortillas, fresh guacamole and other traditional items.

Cocktails are well crafted and feature many options of mezcal. A back lit bar inside highlights the over 500 different types of mezcal and tequilas and we enjoyed cocktails like a Spicy Mango Petacon, Mezcal Mule, and Sera Melon, Sera Sandia, which is a mezcal and watermelon cocktail garnished with a slice of watermelon. Over four types of Margaritas are also offered including versions with Grand Marnier, cilantro and a frozen version with choice of mango, strawberry, guava and passion fruit.

The guacamole was chunky and fresh, sprinkled with cotija and three large blue corn tortillas to scoop up the green goodness. If anything, a few more tortillas would have been welcomed as we had plenty of guacamole left after we consumed the tortillas.

Our server was newly transplanted from California, so when we asked about key items, he immediately suggested Los Sopes and especially the Pollo en Mole Negro, two thick pressed tortillas topped with pulled chicken in a dark rich mole sauce and almonds. The mole sauce was delicious, and we saw on the menu an entire section dedicated to that Oaxacan mixture of chilis, spices and cacao beans.

Bakan Wynwood Quesadillas Flor de Calabaza

We also selected the Flor de Calabaza, blue corn quesadillas with zucchini flowers, poblano, corn and epazote and asadero Mexican cheese. It came with salsa, beans and guacamole and was listed as a Vegetarian option.

We could tell by the attention to the flavors in these dishes that this was an authentic upscale Mexican experience and not a fast-casual taco stand. Los Exoticos for the adventurous diner include agave worms and guacamole on a tortilla and Escamoles, or ant eggs sauteed with butter, shallots and served with a tortilla. We did not venture into that territory this trip.

Marvin, the manager offered us a tour of the inside where we saw how the blue corn tortillas are freshly made every day from the imported organic corn in the Comal, a tortilla making griddle. Bakan’s Tacos, Carnitas, Tostadas and Enchiladas are traditional items with a not so traditional twist.

Our server also highlighted the cherry and oak wood burning grill where the tortillas are warmed and we selected from the A la Leña section the Huachinango Entero, a whole local red snapper that is deboned and split and served ½ with a spicy achiote rub and the other ½ half with garlic, lemon and parsley rub. Another option would be the beef Asado A La Leña.