Recap: Hiyakawa X Chef Alex Chang

It is hard to justify an expensive dinner out the week of SOBEWFF. With so many enticing food events, and intimate dinners with top chefs averaging $300 pp, it still took me only a minute to purchase ticket to the Hiyakawa X Alex Chang dinner this week.

Some of you may remember when Chef Alex Chang first appeared on the Miami Food scene. It was 2015, and The Vagabond Motel had just opened at 73rd and Biscayne. The reimagined 1950’s Mid-Century Modern motel heralded a renaissance in the area and Chef Alex and art dealer and restaurateur, Alvaro Perez Miranda opened the restaurant in the hotel to much fanfare and positive reviews. ( Read 2015 MIAbites article here )

It was the beginning of a movement in Miami that included young, creative chefs like Chef Alex and Chef Brad Kilgore cooking and receiving well deserved accolades.

Sadly, Chef Alex left Miami a couple years later and returned to Los Angeles, where he opened The Exchange at the Freehand Los Angeles and continued his chef journey on the West Coast.

So when I saw his name associated with the new, elegant 14 seat Hiyakawa in Wynwood, I jumped at the opportunity. It was a reunion of sorts, as the Hiyakawa partner with Chef Masayuki Komatsu is none other than Alvaro Perez Miranda, who first introduced Chef Alex to Miami.

And it was a delicious and extraordinary evening, with creative dishes by Chef Alex and a “sushi break” from Chef Masa. Beverage pairings included a sake and plum martini, wines, sake and cider and presented and expertly explained by Chef Alex’s wife, who happens to be the Somm.

The details of the meal were as follows:

The starters each offered a sneak peek into the variety of flavors Chef Alex enjoys using.

A pacific gold oyster was fresh and dressed in a light cucumber and lime vinaigrette.

Grilled kanpachi skewers mixed the fresh fish with green olives and olive oil dressing

Gougere, a cheesy puff pastry had just a hint of Japanese curry

And the beef tartare topped homemade milk break

The starters were followed with a fresh avocado and citrus salad with delicate fried seaweed on top and a buckwheat waffle, that we were instructed to top with koi cream, uni and squeeze of lime

The “sushi break” included rolls, and Hiyakawa’s fresh sushi and we were instructed to gently brush each piece with the light soy mixture provided as desired.

After the sushi palate cleanser, Chef Alex teased us with a twice fried chicken wing with a yuzo kosho dipping

The main course was a perfectly cooked dry aged sirloin to be dipped in a raw egg yolk and warm butter sauce

Dessert included soba panda cotta with strawberry granita and a decadent chocolate cake with Japanese whisky, whipped cream and hazelnut

The setting in Hiyakawa is relaxed yet elegant with blonde wood seating and was the perfect venue for Chef Alex’s return visit.

When asked, both Alvaro and Chef Alex hinted at a full time return to Miami and one can only hope that we will once again be able to enjoy this (still) young chefs’ talents in the Magic City.