MaryGold's Florida Brasserie: A welcome return for Chef Brad Kilgore
As the Miami food and beverage scene continues to evolve, with new additions of sleek, stunning and very pricey restaurants, it becomes even more important to celebrate the accomplishments of the local Miami chefs. While NY, LA, or even Vegas concepts seem to multiply like rabbits, local top chefs continue to turn out some of the best and most creative dishes in Miami.
Bradley Kilgore is one of those top chefs, a James Beard Finalist and one of Food & Wine Magazines Top Chefs, he was never afraid to test the boundaries of dining, most notably at the intimate and edgy Alter, followed by the two-level Ember/Kaido restaurants and hidden Japanese lounge, Ama in the Design District.
COVID basically provided a one-two punch closing all in Spring 2020.
The unanticipated break provided Brad a chance to return to his most creative roots, as many of us tuned in to his and pastry chef wife, Soraya’s, online cooking demos, or followed his career as he was guest chef/mentor for VIP clubs at Hard Rock Stadium and opened Verve at the exclusive, “automotive resort”, Concours Club. And he became a father for the first time.
MaryGold’s, in the hip new Arlo Hotel in Wynwood, is Brad’s newest venture and with an open kitchen, outdoor and indoor dining and a warm and cozy feel, it represents the kind of restaurant that is thankfully more Miami than NY.
On a recent Sunday, a group of us dined for dinner and found the menu approachable, with enough creativity and options for everyone in our group.
I still fondly remember Alter’s fresh bread service, and the Layered Brioche with a Sourdough Orange Blossom Honey butter was a perfect way to start our dinner. Not to be missed under “to share” is the fluffy Jerk Oxtail Beignets, with coconut gouda cream and topped with slivers of green onion.
Appetizers include Line Caught Sashimi with a spicy Naranja Agria, Scotch bonnet Kasho, local radish and enhanced with a mustard seed oil ( TIP: Save some of the flaky brioche to dip into the sauce).
Always longing for a creative salad, the Fennel Pollen Caesar was especially flavorful topped with Trout Roe and in a Buttermilk Peppercorn Vinaigrette.
With lots of options for Entrees, from a Bone In Pork Chop, to Grouper Al Pastor to a vegetarian Cabbage Terrine, with mushroom, eggplant in a Seaweed Vinaigrette, we settled on the French Onion Burger and the Hand cut Tagliatelle with sweet crab in a Homestead grown tomato pomodoro and dusting of scallop parmesan.
The burger was perfectly prepared ( we ordered one well done and one medium) and was a steak patty, topped with compté cheese, grilled onion marmalade and served with side of crispy fries served in a shiny copper cup.
Optional Sides include Heirloom Carrots in a pistachio tahini and local Mushrooms topped with Crispy Rye crumbs.
Our one big miss was dessert, as the Baked Florida, a whimsical take on the cruise ship classic with layers of passion fruit, mango, pineapple and vanilla wrapped in a coconut merengue is set afire tableside with house spiced Haitian rum.
Attention to detail both in the dishes and in the service made our evening at MaryGold’s most enjoyable and credit is due to Brad’s watchful eye and support of his team both in the front of the house and in the kitchen.
Wynwood is changing. Arlo represents the first hotel. MaryGold’s is a must visit.
Arlo Hotel
2217 NW Miami CT
Miami, FL
Reservations on Seven Rooms